Do you need extra storage? Do you love a rustic look? Then I have the perfect project for you! These beautiful storage cabinets are roomy and versatile enough to store office supplies, shoes, linens, toys and many other things. I especially love them because they’re suspended off the floor which makes the room seem much larger than it is. They’re also super easy to vacuum or sweep under making it a cinch to keep the floor clean. I absolutely love mine and you will too!!
(The tutorial for the rustic table sitting in-between the cabinets can be found HERE).
Tools & Supplies:
- Chop saw
- Pencil & measuring tape
- Belt sander (this is optional as I like to round off the sharp edges of my wood to give a more worn look when I’m finished putting the cabinet together)
- Twelve 1x3s at 6ft long (door pieces)
- One 1×2 at 6ft long (door piece)
- Two 1x4s at 2ft 8in long (top and bottom door braces)
- One 1×4 at 6ft long (diagonal cross brace of door)
- 1x12s at 2ft 6 1/2in long (these are the top & bottom of the cabinet box, and also the shelves of the cabinet. You’ll need at least 2 for the top & bottom and then one for every shelf that you want inside)
- Two 1x12s at 6ft long (cabinet box)
- Three 1x4s at 2ft 6 1/2in long (back braces)-you’ll use these to mount the cabinet to the wall with
- One 1×3 at 2ft 6in long (inside door brace)
- Two 1x4s at 8 1/2in long (short cross brace of door)-one end on each piece will need to be cut at a 22.5 degree angle
- Two 1x4s at 1ft 9in long (medium cross brace of door)-one end on each piece will need to be cut at a 22.5 degree angle
- Carpenter’s square (to make sure wood is square when screwing together)
- Old wood stain & paintbrush (I used my own homemade DIY Old Wood Stain)
- Clear satin polyurethane & paintbrush
- Box of 1 1/4in wood screws (use black ones to give an old look)
- Box of 3/4in wood screws (I couldn’t find black ones so I touched them up with some black paint when the project was done)
- Box of 1in screws (use black ones to give an old look)
- Four Double-Sided Strap Hinges-(I bought mine at Home Depot HERE)
- 2 old-looking handles (I bought mine at Hobby Lobby HERE)
- Padlock metal door latch (I bought mine at Hobby Lobby HERE)
- Hand drill with bits
Cabinet & Shelves Assembly:
Make the cabinet box by screwing together the two long 1x12s and two of the shorter 1x12s using the 1 1/4in screws. Make sure to ‘sandwich’ the shorter boards in-between the longer ones.
For each screw, make sure to drill a pilot hole first to prevent the wood from cracking.
Then add the rest of the shorter 1x12s to make shelves.
Screw the back braces on. Make sure one goes in the upper, lower, and middle area of the cabinet.
Also, I made sure my back braces were mounted at the top area of each shelf instead of the bottom. This leaves more room for things sitting on the shelf.
Here’s a close view of one of the back braces screwed to the cabinet. I made sure to use at least 2 screws on each end.
Gather together all of the door pieces. The skinnier 1×2 will be in the center of the 12 wider ones
Line them up this way on the cabinet box that you just built, then screw on the top and bottom door braces with the 1in screws. Building the door on top of the cabinet box helps to keep everything lined up nicely.
Lay out the diagonal cross brace of the door. A 22.5 degree cut will need to be made at both ends of the brace.
For double checking, I like to mark my wood with a pencil where I want the cut to be before cutting, just as a precaution to avoid cutting the angle in the wrong direction (you can never be too careful!)
Then I line the mark up with my blade to make sure it’s right on.
Screw on the diagonal brace with the 1in screws.
Screw on the the short and medium cross braces of the door with the 1in screws. I actually decided to add these extra braces after I stained my cabinet. (It was kind of a pain since it’s much easier to screw it all together first, THEN stain it all!)
Flip the door over and screw on the the inside door brace with the 1in screws. Make sure you center it or else the door won’t close correctly.
To get a more worn look, I round off all the outer edges of the cabinet and door with a belt sander. A belt sander takes off a lot of material in a little amount of time.
NOW you can stain it all! I used my homemade DIY Old Wood Stain.
After the stain was dry, I added the clear satin polyurethane.
Quick note: Only add one coat of this brand of polyurethane if you want a ‘Satin’ finish instead of a glossy finish. Although it says ‘Satin’, it does get glossier with more coats! (I found this out after adding two coats and my door was so glossy that it looked wet even after it dried!)
To fix the glossiness, I sprayed on a quick coat of satin clear coat. It did the trick!
Time to attach the hinges! For more sturdiness I drilled two more holes with my hand drill into one side of each hinge. I did this because one of the holes won’t be used when you mount it to the door.
Mount the hinges with the 3/4in screws
As you can see, one of the holes won’t be used
Mount the handle and the padlock door latch with the 1in screws
I have a method to mount the cabinets relatively easily. Set the cabinet on something that will hold it at the exact height it will be mounted on the wall. (I used a crate with some 2x4s stacked on top)
Then I covered the top with an old towel
Set the cabinet on top of the box, mount it to the wall, then slide the box out from beneath. The towel helps it slide out easy and prevents any scratching.
The red dots show where I drilled 3in wood screws through the back braces and into the studs inside the wall to mount. (The third back brace in the pic is hidden by the lower shelf)