DIY Farmhouse Kitty Box Hideaway

 

 

DIY Farmhouse Kitty Box Hideaway

What do you think of my awesome kitty box?  

 

I bet you would never have guessed it was inside this cabinet, would you?

 

I didn’t like any of the hidden kitty box furniture out there, so I made one up that I think is stylish and has no hint of Kitty anywhere.  Isn’t it beautiful?

 

There is even some storage in the bottom of this cabinet as you can see!   

 

I put some little hooks just under the small black hooks to hold your garden tools, or whatever you want! 

 

There is ample table top space to set your plants or whatever you want to put on this cainet!  I love the little shelf that runs across the top for all my small plants, and garden decor too!

 

It is cute enough to put anywhere your heart desires! 

 

So, let’s open the doors and show you where the kitty box is hidden!  Isn’t this awesome?

 

I even put in a pull out self for easy cleaning! 

 

I put a kitty matt on the landing where the kitty climbs up and down after doing his or her business to so the gravel stays put. Is this fun?

 

You can even store your cat box shovel right inside the door for your convenience! 

 

So, are  you convinced you need one too?  I LOVE mine!  It is so beautiful and handy!

You will have to check out my tutorial below!  

 

Oh, you don’t have a cat, you say?  You can make this without the Kitty box insert too!  I have the full tutorial for the Farmhouse Hutch / Potting Bench HERE! 

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DIY Farmhouse Kitty Box Hideaway

 

 

Supplies:

Lumber:

 

1. Two 2×4s at 34-1/2 inches in length (front legs)
2. Two 2×4s at 53-1/2 inches in length (back legs)
3. Five 2×2s at 40 inches in length (shelf braces)
4. One 2×4 at 40 inches in length (top-back tabletop brace)
5. One 2×4 at 47 inches in length (top-back shelf brace) I recommend waiting to cut this board so it can be cut to fit when you get to this point in the build.
6. Six 2×4s at 48 inches in length (tabletop).
7. One 2×6 at 50 inches in length (top shelf).
8. Ten 2×6s at 19 inches in length (slats).
9. Ten 1×4s at 29-1/2 inches in length (side walls). I recommend cutting these boards to fit when you get to this point in the build
10. Four 1×2s at 19 inches in length (bottom-side wall braces).
11. Twelve 1×4s at 51-1/2 inches in length (back slats).  I used fence panels as they were cheaper
12. Two 2×2s at 34-3/4 inches in length (the ‘x’ on the side walls).  I recommend cutting these boards to fit when you get to this point in the build
13. Two 2×2s at 18-1/2 inches in length (the ‘x’ on the side walls).  I recommend cutting these boards to fit when you get to this point in the build)
14. Two 2×2s at 15-3/4 inches in length (the ‘x’ on the side walls).  I recommend cutting these boards to fit when you get to this point in the build)
15. Twelve 1×4s at 18 inches in length (door slats).  I used fence panels as they were cheaper
16. Four 1×4s at 21-1/4 inches in length (door braces).  I used fence panels as they were cheaper
17. Two 1×4s at 21-1/4 inches in length (diagonal door braces).  I used fence panels as they were cheaper.  Also, I recommend cutting these boards to fit when you get to this point in the build
18. One piece of 3/4 inch thick plywood measuring 29 1/4 X 22 inches (sliding shelf).
19. Four 1×2s at 22 inches in length (sliding shelf braces).

Hardware:

1. Box of 2-1/2 inch screws (I prefer using black-colored drywall screws as they tend to look more aged than the shiny golden screws do).
2. 1-1/4 inch screws (I prefer using black-colored drywall screws as they tend to look more aged than the shiny golden screws do).
3. 1 inch screws (I prefer using black-colored drywall screws as they tend to look more aged than the shiny golden screws do).
4. Four 8 inch decorative metal straps (I found mine at Home Depot)
5. Two metal corner brackets (I found mine at Hobby Lobby HERE)
6. Two 3-1/2 inch metal shelf brackets (I found mine at Hobby Lobby HERE)
7. Two metal decorative handles (I found mine at Hobby Lobby HERE)
8. One double magnetic catch (I found mine at Home Depot HERE)
9. Five small decorative hooks (I found mine at Hobby Lobby)
10. Four hinges (I found mine at Home Depot)  Mine were silver when I bought them so I spray painted them black
11. One black door handle-pull (I found mine at Home Depot)
12. Two 22 inch full-extension soft close drawer slides.  They came with their own screws for mounting.  (I found mine at Lowe’s HERE)
13. Cup hook to hang litter scoop

Miscellaneous:

1. One coat of Stain/Polyurethane (I bought mine at Home Depot)  The pecan had a little more orange in it than I expected so be sure to do a test spot before applying)
2. One coat of Indoor/Outdoor Spar Urethane (I bought mine at Home Depot)

Tools:

1. Miter saw
2. Hand drill with bits (you’ll need a Philips bit, and few drilling bits for pilot holes and countersinking your screws.  (I always use two hand drills so I don’t have to keep switching the bits out)
3. Carpenter’s square (You can also use a ruler as I only used this for drawing straight lines
4. Rotary Sander with 60 grit sand paper

 

 

DIY Farmhouse Kitty Box Hideaway

Lumber – Pictures

Note: Numbers  below correspond to numbers above under heading “Lumber”

#1-8

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#9

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#10

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#11

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#12

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#13

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#14

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#15-16

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#17

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#18-19

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Hardware – Pictures

Note: Numbers below correspond to same numbers above under heading “Hardware”

#1

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#2

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#3

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#4

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#5

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#6

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#7

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#8

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#9

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#10

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#11

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#12

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#13

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Miscellaneous – Pictures

Note: Numbers below correspond to same numbers under heading “Miscellaneous”

1

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2

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Tools – Pictures

Note:  The numbers below correspond to the same numbers under heading “Tools”

1

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2

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3

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4

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DIY Farmhouse Kitty Box Hideaway

Instructions

Wooden Frame:

First, using the 2 1/2 inch screws (#1 in hardware), screw together the front legs, back legs and 4 slats (#’s 1, 2, & 8 in lumber).  Remember to drill pilot holes to prevent cracking the wood!

Now, screw on the bottom two slats (#8 in lumber) 2 inches from the bottom of the legs (#’s 1 & 2 in lumber).

Next, screw on three shelf braces (#3 in lumber).

Now, screw on the top-back tabletop brace (#4 in lumber) and also 8 slats (#8 in lumber)

Measure the exact distance between the back legs and cut out your top-back shelf brace (#5 in lumber) to this measurement.

Finally, screw on your top-back shelf brace (#5 in lumber)

To screw it on, I drilled my 2-1/2 inch screws (#1 in hardware) at a diagonal and countersunk the heads of the screws.  Also, drilling pilot holes first makes this so much easier!

X-Side Walls:

It is time to make the two ‘x’s that are on the side walls.

First, to cut out the longer piece of the ‘x’ (#12 in lumber), have someone hold the 2×2 against the side as shown (I didn’t have help so I sandwiched the 2×2 against the wall instead).

With a pencil, draw 2 straight lines to mark where the 2×2 will be cut.

Using the miter saw (#1 in tools), cut the 2×2 along the lines you just drew.  Now, make a second one by repeating the process on the other side where the second ‘x’ will be.

Next, screw them on as shown in the picture.  Remember those pilot holes!

Now, lets make the other piece of the ‘x’ (#’s 13 & 14 in lumber) by having someone hold a 2×2 against the side as shown (again, I didn’t have help so I sandwiched the 2×2 against the wall instead).

With a pencil, draw 4 straight lines to mark where the cuts will be made.

Using the miter saw (#1 in tools), cut along the lines you just drew.  Now, repeat the process on the other side where the second ‘x’ will be.  You should end up with two #13’s and two #14’s in lumber.

Next, screw on #13 in lumber as shown by the arrows.  Remember those pilot holes!

Now, attach #14 in lumber.

I screwed this piece on as shown in the two pics below.

…and you guessed it, more pilot holes!

Side Walls:

Let’s finish the side walls.  First, measure the distance as shown.

Now, cut out your five side wall pieces (#9 in lumber) to this measurement.

I used 1-1/4 inch screws (#2 in hardware) to tack each board to the inside of the ‘x’.  This held them in place until I was ready for the next step.

Next, screw on the two #10 pieces in lumber.  This will secure the #9 in lumber pieces together.

I secured the ends of my #10 pieces in lumber with some 2-1/2 inch screws (#1 in hardware), as shown.  Now, repeat the process on the other side where the second ‘x’ is.

Table Top and Top Shelf:

First, screw on the table top pieces (#6 in lumber) and the top shelf (# 7 in lumber).

I screwed on the top shelf (# 7 in lumber) as shown in the pic below.

Middle Shelf Braces:

First, screw on the last two shelf braces (#3 in lumber) with 1-1/4 inch screws (#2 in hardware).

To screw them on, I drilled my 2-1/2 inch screws (#1 in hardware) at a diagonal and countersunk the heads of the screws.  Also, drilling pilot holes first makes this so much easier!

Back:

First, center the back slats (#11 in lumber) and screw them on with 1-1/4 inch screws (#2 in hardware)

Make sure they are secured so that the ends stop just below where the top shelf starts.

Doors:

First, using the 1 inch screws (#3 in hardware), screw together six door slats (#15 in lumber) and two door braces (#16 in lumber) as shown.  I screwed them in from the back.

Although I screwed it together from the back, the red dots show where I put my screws.

Time to cut out the diagonal door brace (#17 in lumber).  Simply place the 1×4 as shown.

Now, draw two straight lines as shown, to mark where to cut.

Next, cut along the lines with the miter saw (#1 in tools) and it should fit right into place.  Screw it on.

Although I screwed in from the back, the red dots show where I put my screws.

Now, repeat the process for the other door.  You should end up with two doors.

Sanding and Painting:

First, use the rotary sander (#4 in tools), to get rid of rough spots.

Next, apply one coat of Stain/Polyurethane (#1 in miscellaneous), and let dry. Remember, the pecan color had a little more orange in it than I expected so if you choose this color, be sure to do a test spot before applying.

Last, apply one coat of Indoor/Outdoor Spar Urethane (#2 in miscellaneous), and let dry.

DIY Farmhouse Kitty Box Hideaway

Adding Hardware:

Use 1 inch screws (#3 in hardware) to mount all the hardware.

First, screw in the two handles (#7 in hardware) on the doors.

Next, screw in the four decorative metal straps (#4 in hardware) on the doors and two corner brackets (#5 in hardware).

Now, screw in the five decorative hooks (#5 in hardware) underneath the top shelf.

Next, screw in the two metal shelf brackets (#6 in hardware).

Next, mount the doors by adding the four hinges (#10 in hardware).

Next, screw in one double magnetic catch (#8 in hardware).

Last, be sure to screw in the matching metal latch where you want it to close so that when the door is closed, the tab meets up and touches the magnet.

Assembling Pullout Shelf:

For the plywood sliding shelf (#18 in lumber) and the sliding shelf braces (#19 in lumber), you will first, apply a coat of Stain/Polyurethane (#1 in miscellaneous), and let dry.

Next, apply one coat of Indoor/Outdoor Spar Urethane (#2 in miscellaneous), and let dry.

Next, with the 1-1/4 inch screws (#2 in hardware), screw together the plywood (#18 in lumber) and two sliding shelf braces (#19 in lumber).

Now, find a flat surface and make sure the shelf is upside-down  Gather the two drawer slides (#12 in hardware), and extend them all the way out.  Lay them down, sandwiching the shelf between the ends of drawer slides as shown.

Using the screws that come with the drawer slides, mount the slides to the shelf as shown.

 

Last, using the 1-1/4 inch screws (#2 in hardware), screw another sliding shelf brace (#19 in lumber) into the cabinet

Adding Pullout Shelf Wood Braces:

First, flip the shelf right-side up (with the drawer slides attached) and place it inside the cabinet, pushing it snugly up against the sliding shelf brace (#19 in lumber) that you just screwed into the cabinet.

Now, place the last sliding shelf brace (#19 in lumber) next to the self, making sure it’s pushed snugly up against the shelf.

 

With a pencil, make two marks where the last sliding shelf brace (#19 in lumber) sits.

Next, take the shelf out.  Using the 1-1/4 inch screws (#2 in hardware), mount the last sliding shelf brace (#19 in lumber) onto the cabinet, making sure it lines up with the marks you just made with the pencil.

To screw it on, go through the bottom-up as shown in the pic below and countersink the heads of the screws.  Do the same with the other end also.

FYI: Drilling pilot holes before adding the screw makes this so much easier!

Here is a view underneath the sliding shelf brace, looking up to the ceiling.  It shows how the sliding shelf brace was mounted with a countersunk screw.

Adding Pullout-Shelf Hardware to Wooden Shelf Braces:

First, place the shelf back inside the cabinet where where you had it before.  There should be a small clearance space underneath the shelf (mine is approx 1/8 inch).  If there isn’t a space at all, your shelf will drag while using it.  (I’ll show you how to fix this in a minute.)

Take your shelf back out, placing it upside down again.  Extend the drawer slides back out all the way, as before.

Now, find the lever on the side of the drawer slide, and push (up or down).

While pressing on the lever, pull on the back end of the drawer slide and it will disconnect from the front end of the drawer slide.

Now you can secure your final screw into the front part of the drawer slide as shown, making it more secure.  Repeat this process for the other side of the shelf.

(For shelves that already have clearance spaces)

Lay the detached back parts of the drawer slides against the shelf braces you just installed, and screw them on as shown.  You can use the screws that came with the drawer slides.

(For shelves that don’t have clearance spaces)

You’ll simply lay the detached back parts of the drawer slides against the shelf braces you just installed, and lift them up  until there is a clearance space (anywhere between 1/8 to 1/4 inch).

Now, screw them on as shown.  You can use the screws that came with the drawer slides.

Putting on the sliding shelf:

First, flip your shelf right-side up, lining up the back and front drawer slides with each other.  Gently push until the drawer slides slide into each other, connecting them together again.

Gently but firmly, push the shelf all the way in so that the slides connect back together completely (you should here a ‘click’ sound).

Adding Handle to Pullout Shelf:

Screw on the door handle pull (#11 in hardware) as shown, using the screws that came with the handle.

 

Adding Hook for Kitty Litter Rake:

Last, screw in the hook to hang your kitty litter rake.

Yay!!  You are Finished!

Now decorate the top of your Farmhouse kitty hideaway, add the litter box inside, and you are ready to go!

DIY Farmhouse Kitty Box Hideaway

DIY Farmhouse Kitty Box Hideaway

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