Make sure to see this prop in action in the video!…WAIT FOR IT!!!

DIY Halloween Coffin Jumper

The stage is set.  An unsuspecting trick-or-treater enters your property, awaiting a handful of yummy Halloween candy…

But haven’t we forgotten something?  Doesn’t the saying say TRICK-or-treat?

Here’s where the trick comes in.  As they pass by the spooky-looking walkway, a terrifying ghoul suddenly jumps out at them with a loud scream!  The startled visitors jump back, a couple of them fall backwards in the grass…and you sit there watching the whole thing, giggling at your very well thought out trick!  You then reward the surprised guests with a handful of treats (if they are brave enough to stick around…hehe)!

This animated prop is my all time favorite!  It never fails to scare and is set off by a motion sensor.  When an unsuspecting trick-or-treater passes by, they always stop to look at what is in the coffin.  This triggers the motion sensor and sets the coffin jumper into motion….right over their head!…along with any sound effects or strobe lights that are also plugged into the motion sensor. I can attest that this looks 100 times scarier at night!  Bwahahahaha!

 

 

DIY Halloween Coffin Jumper Tutorial

Body Frame:

Tools:

  1. Hand Drill and Bits
  2. PVC Cutter
  3. 1 inch Drywall Screws (to secure the PVC pieces together)

Body Supplies:

  1. 3/4in PVC at 7 inches long (I leave this part a little long so I can adjust the length when it’s time to attach the head)
  2. 1/2 PVC at 5 1/2 inches long
  3. 1/2in coupling
  4. 1/2in PVC at 6 inches long
  5. 1/2in elbow coupling
  6. 1/2in PVC at 9 inches long
  7. 1/2in 45 degree coupling
  8. 3/4in cross coupling
  9. Reducer (3/4in down to 1/2in)
  10. 1/2in PVC at 6 1/2 inches long
  11. 1/2in PVC at 3 1/2 inches long
  12. 1/2in cross coupling
  13. 1/2in PVC at 4 1/2 inches long

Assembling the Body Frame Instructions:

First (starting with #1), cut each piece of PVC and assemble it all together as shown (pictured below) with the corresponding PVC Connectors.

Note: #2 slides through #8 coupling, and both #13s slide through #15 couplings.

Here’s a closer look (below) at the top pivot point that will enable the arms to swing forward.  I simply slid the #2 PVC through the larger #8 cross coupling.

Here is a closer look at the lower two pivot points (see below)  that the air cylinder will attach to.  I slid each #13 PVC piece through each #15 tee coupling.

The arrows (below) show the three moving parts (pivot points) on the body.  The top pivot point enables the arms to swing forward when the body jolts forward, and the two bottom pivot points are what the air cylinder will be attached to in order to thrust the body forward.

Securing Pivot Points Together:

Now, secure all of the non-moving pieces together with a screw.

Top Pivot Point (See Below)

Lower Two Pivot Points (See Below)

(DIY Halloween Coffin Jumper)

Coffin:

Tools and Supplies:

  1. Skill Saw
  2. Jig Saw
  3. Drill and Drill bits
  4. Box of 1-1/4 inch drywall screws
  5. Stain or paint for wood.   I used an oil based wood stain and finish (Minwax) when I originally made this, but you can use anything you like.

Coffin Wood Cuts:

(Coffin is 76 inches tall and 33.5 inches at widest point)

  1. (2) 8 foot, 3/4 inch thick plywood panels with various-sized cuts below:
    • 18 in. x 11-1/2 in. (Cut 1)
    • 30 in. x 11-1/2 in. (Cut 2)
    • 48 in. x 11-1/2 in. (Cut 2)
    • 12 in. x 11-1/2 in. (Cut 1)
    • Back of coffin to be traced once sides are screwed together
  2. Wood Braces to attach sides and bottom of coffin together. You will cut to fit when you get to that part in the build:
    • (1) 8 foot (2 x 6) Top and bottom braces.
    • (2) 8 foot (2 x 3s) Side braces.

Hardware:

  1.  Twelve ‘L’ brackets to attach the sides together (I used 1/2inch screws to screw the brackets on)  I had to bend the ‘L’ brackets slightly to fit the angles of my coffin since the brackets were at a 90 degree angle when they came in the package.

 

Coffin Assembly Instructions:

Disclaimer:  This coffin was already built when I created this tutorial and is about 20 years old.   It looks decrepit because it IS decrepit! I decided not to rebuild it just for the tutorial, but I will use it to tell you how to make one.

Cutting the Coffin Sides:

First, using the plywood, cut out the sides of the coffin, as shown below.

Note: (Coffin is 76 inches tall and 33.5 inches wide between widest points by the shoulders)

Attaching the Braces to the Coffin Sides:

First, screw the sides of the coffin together using the ‘L’ brackets (as shown below in red).  Secure two brackets in each corner as shown. It is easier if you have someone hold up the sides while you screw in the brackets.

Note: I had to bend the ‘L’ brackets slightly to fit the angles of my coffin since the brackets were at a 90 degree angle when they came in the package.

Cutting the Coffin Bottom:

I am going to give you 2 ways to make a  bottom pattern.  Measurements or tracing the sides onto plywood to make a pattern.  Take your pick.

1. Using Measurements to make a pattern for the bottom:

Note: These measurements are all outside measurements from edge to edge.

2. Tracing the sides to make a Bottom:

Note: At this step, just the sides exist. The bottom and braces have not yet been cut.

First, place the frame that you just screwed together onto a second piece of plywood.

Next, using the frame as a template, trace around the outside perimeter of the sides onto the second piece of plywood with a pencil.

Last, cut the second piece out with a skill saw.  This will be the back of the coffin.

Attaching the Coffin Sides to the Braces:

First, cut the 2x6s and 2x3s as shown below.

Now, assemble all the pieces as shown below, (Place the sides directly over the coffin bottom, then place the braces inside.

Note: As you can see in my original coffin, I used random pieces of wood for the braces.  I am showing different braces that I would probably add if I were to make this again. You can do whatever you want.

Attaching the Coffin Bottom to the Coffin sides:

Screw together all of the side pieces of wood (shown below), into the braces with the 1/2 inch screws.

Although I don’t have a picture, this is where you would flip the coffin over and screw the bottom into the braces to secure bottom to sides.

Cutting the Slit in the Bottom of the Coffin:

Measure (down from the top) 7-1/2 inches, then cut a 37 inch X 2 inch wide slit down the very center of the bottom of the coffin, using a jig saw.

Note: You can drill a hole inside the area to be removed in order to insert  your jig saw blade. 

This is where the arms of the contraption will pass through, flinging the body forward.

(DIY Halloween Coffin Jumper)

Support Brace:

Tools and Supplies Needed:

  • Chop Saw
  • 2 1/2 inch Wood Screws,
  • Stain or Paint to paint the support brace

Support Brace Wood Cuts:

  1. Seven various-sized 2x4s as shown (make sure to cut an angle of 42 degrees for the ends of the two 58 1/2″ pieces and also the two 12 1/2″ pieces)
    • 57-1/2 inches long cut with a 42 degree angle on one side (Cut 2)
    • 48 inches long (Cut 1)
    • 42 inches long (Cut 1)
    • 12-1/2 inches long cut with a 42 degree angle on one side (Cut 2)
    • 9-1/2 inches long (Cut 1)

Picture of Wood Cuts:

 

Support Brace Instructions:

First, gather the 41 inch long 2×4 and lay it down as shown below.

Next, using the 2 1/2 inch screws, screw the 9 1/2 inch and the 48 inch long 2×4 boards, one on each end.  When you are finished, it should look like an airplane.

Now, turn it on it’s end as shown below (like the airplane is crashing…LOL).

Next, screw on the two 58 1/2 inch 2x4s, as shown below.

Now, flip it around again (as shown below) so the last 2 boards you just attached are sticking straight up in the air.

Lastly, attach the two 12 1/2 inch 2x4s.

Attaching the Support Braces to the Coffin:

First, screw the coffin onto the braces using the 1 1/4 inch drywall screws (I used a big cinder block to keep the coffin from sliding down while I was mounting it to the brace).  When screwing the the top part of the coffin on, you will use four screws although you may want to just tack it on temporarily with just a couple of screws, as you’ll have to remove the top screws when attaching the PVC pulley levers.

As you can see, here is where the screws go through the bottom of the coffin, into the lower braces.

(DIY Halloween Coffin Jumper)

Pulley Levers:

Tools:

  • Hand Drill and Bits
  • Hole Saw or Spade Bit (same width as the PVC couplings)
  • 1inch Drywall Screws

Supplies:

  1. (1) 3/4 inch diameter electrical conduit cut to 48 inches in length
  2. (2) pieces of 3/4 inch PVC at 35 inches length, and two 3/4 inch Tee-Couplings
  3. (1) 1 inch self tapping screw
  4. Flat Black Spray Paint

Pictures of Supplies:

  1. Electrical Conduit

2. PVC and Tee Couplings

 

3. Self Tapping Screw

 

4. Hole Saw

(DIY Halloween Coffin Jumper)

Attaching the Pulley Levers Instructions:

First, push the tees onto the two PVC pieces.

Next, put a screw through both to secure.

Note: I would recommend spray painting the pulley levers flat black at this point (instead of waiting until they are attached to paint them like I did), to avoid getting over spray on your coffin. 

Now, using the hand drill and the hole saw attachment, drill two holes into both 2x4s of the back braces of the coffin.

Here are the measurements of where to drill the two holes through both braces.

Next, slide the tee couplings of each pulley lever into the holes you just drilled as shown below.

Note: You will have to unscrew the brace from the top of the coffin to squeeze the couplings in-between the two 2x4s.  After the couplings are inserted, you can re-screw the top of the coffin permanently to the top of the brace.

At this stage, the other ends of the pulley levers should stick through the slit in the coffin.

Inserting the Conduit into the bottom PVC Pulley Lever:

First, insert the conduit all the way into the bottom PVC pulley lever (the conduit gives strength to the PVC when the body shoots forward (as I found out later after a few busted pulley levers and had to come back and update this part. This is why my pulley levers are painted black in some of the pics).

Now, mark with a pencil and cut the excess conduit off so that the conduit inside the pulley is flush with the end of the pulley.

You can see the conduit is cut flush with the Pulley lever.

Next, attach the body by inserting the pulley levers into the Tee couplings on the body.

Last, secure the body to the pulley levers with a one inch screw on the top pulley and a self tapping screw on the bottom pulley (that has the conduit in it).  The self tapping screw in needed so that it can screw through the metal conduit.

Note: if you haven’t already done it, you can now spray paint pulley levers black, to hide them when while in motion.

 

Air Cylinder

Tools

  • Hand Drill
  • Spade Bit

Supplies:

  1. 32mm Bore 200mm Stroke Mini Air Cylinder with Y Connector (this particular one I bought also came with some 1/8 inch sized fittings that I used later in the pneumatic set up).
  2. Conduit hanger size #2-Make sure it comes with a nut and bolt that you will need. (you can also get one at the Home Depot)
  3. 3/8 thread rod at 5 1/2 inches in length (you can also use a bolt), two nuts, and two fender washers (make sure they fit on the thread rod. (you may need a ratchet that fits the nut, when tightening)
  4. 3/8 inch spade bit (a regular drill bit at the same width in size will work fine too)
  5. One 1 inch self tapping screw

Pictures of Supplies:

  1. Y Connector and 32mm Bore 200mm Stroke Mini Air Cylinder

2. Conduit Hanger – Size #2

3. 3/8 Thread Rod at 5 1/2 inches in length, 2 nuts and 2 fender washers

4. 3/8 inch Spade Bit

5. 1 inch Self-Tapping Screw

Attaching the Air Cylinder – Instructions:

First, screw the Y-connector onto the cylinder.

After it is screwed together, it should look like this (see below).

Now, you can discard the bolt that comes with the Y connector.

Next, measuring down the bottom pulley, measure out 10 inches from the hole.

Attach the conduit hanger to the bottom pulley at this mark.

Next, mount the cylinder by connecting the Y-connector to the conduit hanger with the nut and bolt that came with the conduit hanger.

Now, secure the conduit hanger by drilling a self tapping screw through it and into the PVC pipe.

With the spade bit and hand drill, you can, then, drill a hole through both 2x4s of the coffin braces as shown.

Shown is a side shot shown drilling the hole in pic below.

Last, attach the other end of the cylinder to the braces by pushing the thread rod through both holes, sandwiching the cylinder in-between as shown.  Secure each end with a fender washer and a nut.

(DIY Halloween Coffin Jumper)

Pneumatic Set Up:

Tools:

  • Wire Crimps
  • Pliers to tighten bolts
  • Wire Strippers
  • PVC Cutters (or sharp industrial scissors) to cut the air hose tubing with)
  • Air Compressor

 Supplies:

  1. 8mm (or 5/16) outer diameter Pneumatic Air Hose Tube for Push Type Quick Fittings (I bought mine at Home Depot as it was a little cheaper)

  2. Three Male 1/8″ – 8mm Pneumatic Straight Union Push In To Connecter Air Fitting (if you order the air cylinder that I used, you won’t need to buy these, as they already come with it)

  3. Two Pneumatic Push to Connect Air Flow Control Valve, 8mm Tube Outer Diameter x 1/8″ Male Thread, Elbow 90 Degree Switch Valve

  4. One 1/8″ NPT 5 Way 2 Position Pneumatic Electric Solenoid Valve DC 12 V from U.S. SOLID

  5. Two Air Pneumatic Exhaust Mufflers, 1/8″ Male Thread Exhaust Muffler

  6. One 1/4 inch female compressor hose coupler.  There are two types of compressor couplers: Industrial and Automotive so make sure to get the one that fits your compressor setup.  (you can also get these at Home Depot).

  7. Three Straight Pneumatic Push to Quick Connect Fitting 1/4 inches Male x 8mm Tube outer diameter  (you’ll only need one of these if you already have a built-in air pressure gauge on your compressor)

  8. 12V Power supply adapter

  9. Motion Sensor for props (see my tutorial on how to make one HERE)  This is what will trigger your coffin jumper when someone walks by.  You can also plug in a strobe light and even a sound effect (like a scream) to this motion sensor to have it all go off simultaneously with your coffin jumper.

  10. Two sets of male and female wire crimp connectors Red or Blue
  11. Air pressure gauge (you won’t need this if your compressor already has one built in.

Pictures of Supplies:

  1. 8mm (or 5/16) outer diameter Pneumatic Air Hose Tube for Push Type Quick Fittings

4.  One 1/8″ NPT 5 Way 2 Position Pneumatic Electric Solenoid Valve DC 12 V from U.S. SOLID

5. Two Air Pneumatic Exhaust Mufflers, 1/8″ Male Thread Exhaust Muffler

6. One 1/4 inch female compressor hose coupler.  There are two types of compressor couplers: Industrial and Automotive so make sure to get the one that fits your compressor setup.

7. Three Straight Pneumatic Push to Quick Connect Fitting 1/4 inches Male x 8mm Tube outer diameter (you’ll only need one of these if you already have a built-in air pressure gauge on your compressor)

8. 12V Power supply adapter

9. Motion Sensor for props

10. Two sets of male and female wire crimp connectors Red or Blue

11. Air pressure gauge (you won’t need this if your compressor already has one built in)

Instructions for Pneumatic Set Up:

First, gather the solenoid (#4) and screw on the three male 1/8″-8mm air fittings (#2).  Make sure to tighten them with a wrench as you want to make sure air will not leak out.

Note: Each opening is labeled A,B, and P in tiny letters, so I labeled them larger in the pic so that you can see them.

Next, screw on the two exhaust mufflers (#5).  Again, make them good and tight with a wrench.

Note:  Each opening is labeled R and S in tiny letters, so I labeled them larger in the pic so that you can see them.

Now, cut three 11 inch pieces of air tubing (#1).

Then, push all three pieces of tubing into the three air fittings you just attached to the solenoid.  Make sure they are pushed in well to prevent air leakage.

Now, screw together the female compressor hose coupler (#6) and one 1/4″-8mm air fitting (#7).  Tighten with a wrench.  This will be the adapter to attach the air compressor hose.

Next, push the adapter onto the tubing as shown.

Now, using the wire strippers, strip the wire ends of the solenoid at about 1/2 inch.

Next, grab the wire crimps and crimp on two female wire crimp connectors (#10) to the stripped ends.

Adding Power Supply Adapter:

Now, cut the end off of the 12V power supply adapter (#8).

After you cut the end off, strip the ends off just like you did with the solenoid wires.

Last, crimp on two male wire crimp connectors to the stripped ends.

Connecting the Pneumatics & Air Cylinder:

First, screw on the two air flow control valves to the cylinder.  Make sure they’re snug.  These valves will allow you to control how fast your mechanism will shoot forward and then retract back.

Now, push on the solenoid tubes to the air control valves as shown originating from openings A and B.

Then, attach the compressor hose to the third tube, opening C, as shown below.

Next, attach the solenoid to the 12V power supply adapter by pushing the male and female ends together.  It doesn’t matter which wire goes to what, simply attach them together.

Attaching Air Compressor Air Pressure Gauge:

Note: Only follow this step if your air compressor doesn’t have a built-in air pressure gauge and you bought one to install. 

First, gather your air pressure gauge (#11) and the last two 1/4″-8mm air fittings (#7).

Now, screw them together and tighten with a wrench.

Then, cut the third tube (opening C tubing) in half.

Next, attach the air pressure gauge by pushing on the two cut ends of the tubes.  That’s it!

Finishing up the Pneumatics:

You are ready to plug in the 12V power supply adapter to the motion sensor.  You can also plug in a sound effect or strobe light to go off at the same time!

Now, set your compressor air pressure gauge to around 50-80 PSI (you’ll have to experiment until you have the right amount of pressure to lift your ghoul completely into the air).  Point the motion sensor where trick-or-treaters will be walking, and try it out!

Remember these air control valves on the air cylinder?  Simply twist them clockwise or counter clockwise to adjust how fast you want your ghoul to jump out and then retract back into the coffin.

(DIY Halloween Coffin Jumper)

Dressing the Coffin

Tools:

  1. Sewing Machine
  2. Drill and bits
  3. Fabric thread
  4. Scissors
  5. Fabric Glue (if you don’t want to sew it)

Supplies:

  • Fabric 84 x 66 inches ( I used and old tablecloth that was already hemmed.  You could also use curtains that already have a rod pocket sewed on the top then just cut the bottom to fit and sew the bottom pocket.
  • (2) 3/4 inch Dowels (or 1x2s or 1x1s) the width of the inside top and inside bottom of the coffin
  • Drywall Screws

Dressing the Coffin Instructions:

I turned tablecloth fabric into a curtain by sewing a rod pocket at the top and again, at the bottom of the fabric so I could fit a curtain rod through both ends.  In order to do this, make sure your fabric is 8 inches longer than the length of the coffin and twice the width of the widest part of the coffin.

Making the Top of the Curtain:

First, to make a pocket, simply fold under 3 or 4 inches of fabric at the top, pin it, then sew (or glue) it down straight across.

Making the Curtain Rods:

Next, I made curtain rods out of left over 1x2s (one cut to the width of the top the coffin, and one cut the width of the bottom of the coffin.  I simply slipped the wooden ‘curtain rod’ through the homemade curtain pocket and secured it by drilling a screw through from the outside of the coffin, into the ‘curtain rod.”

Making the bottom of the curtain:

When the top of the curtain was hung, I repeated the steps for making the bottom curtain pocket by pulling the fabric down tight, and folding down another 2 to 3 inches and pinning it.  Then, I sewed (or you can glue it) straight across to make a second pocket.  Next, I inserted the upper and lower curtain rods and evenly gathered them across.  Last, I cut a slit into the back of the curtain, the same length as the slit in the back of the coffin that the pulley levers stick through.

Top of coffin:

Bottom of Coffin:

(DIY Halloween Coffin Jumper)

Attaching the Head:

Supplies:

 

  1. Scary mask plus the neck PVC piece pulled from the PVC body frame you made.
  2. Foam mannequin head (you can cut the bottom of the neck off as shown with the head on the right, but leave a little more than what I did, as you can adjust as needed).
  3. Expanding foam
  4. Liquid Nails
  5. Black piece of fabric (I used an old tee shirt)

Pictures of Supplies:

  1. Scary mask plus the neck PVC piece pulled from the PVC body frame you made.

2. Foam mannequin head

3. Expanding foam

4. Liquid Nails

Instructions for Attaching the Head:

First, trim off some of the flare from the bottom of the head as shown below.  (I just used a steak knife to do this…LOL)

Second, black out the eyes by gluing a piece black fabric to the mannequin head with liquid nails.  Now, glue the mask on.

Note: I have found that blacking out the eyes with black fabric looks more hollow than painting the eye sockets black.

After the mask is glued, locate the hole on the bottom of the mannequin head.

Now, place the PVC neck into the hole.

In order to secure the head, squirt the expanding foam inside the hole, between the PVC neck pipe and the inside of the hole.

It’s OK if the foam comes out some.  After it’s dry, cut off the excess foam.

Finally, slide the PVC neck part back onto the body frame and secure it with a screw.

 

Note: You’ll notice that my tee connector is painted black as I was just experimenting with covering the neck, but in the end it didn’t matter.

(DIY Halloween Coffin Jumper)

Dressing the Body:

Tools & Supplies:

  • Shirt with Collar (Light weight)
  • Pants (Light weight)
  • zip ties
  • gauzy-looking fabric  or cheesecloth, found at the Dollar Store, etc.
  • pipe cleaners the same color as the gauzy material
  • foil balloon, and some air packaging from the post office.

Dressing the Body Instructions:

In this pic my coffin jumper is simply wearing a lightweight shirt and pants.  He looks a little thin right?  Later, I ended up filling my him out to give him more consistency for the photos, but honestly at night it doesn’t matter so much.  If you have a light that’s constantly on him for trick-or-treaters to see him, then yes, it might be a good idea to fill him out a bit.  But, if he’s in complete darkness and the only light you have on him is a strobe light plugged into the motion sensor that turns on when triggered, you don’t need to fill him out with anything.  He looks great for that few seconds the trick-or-treaters see him jumping up at them in the strobe light.

First, I added the shirt and pants.  Second, I secured the neck of the shirt with a zip tie, making sure it hid underneath the collar.  In addition, we added zip ties  to the back of the shirt to keep it from flying off and to secure the pants, making sure all would stay put when the body flung forward.

Next, in order to fill him out a bit, I stuffed a foil balloon into his chest and zip tied it to the body frame to secure it.  As a result, this filled his chest out (I first spray painted the balloon black before stuffing it in, to prevent the letters from showing through his shirt). You can refill these balloons by sticking a straw into the hole and blowing in more air.

I also zip tied in some post office air packaging to fill his legs out

Then, I added more post office air packaging zip tied in.

Last, I draped gauze material all over his body, securing it here and there with pipe cleaners.  Therefore, it is important to make sure everything stays put especially if he  lunges forward hundreds of times on Halloween night!

It’s now done!!!  Time to scare the daylights out of those trick-or-treaters!

DIY Halloween Coffin Jumper