Gates, Rabbit/Chicken Coops
If you’ve put up your hot wire around the main yard it won’t take long for your determined to find a way out pup to figure out that the surrounding fence may be inescapable but AHAAA, the gate has no hot wire on it! Pretty soon he/she will be climbing over, digging under, or chewing through the gate and getting out again….but we are one step ahead of them!
This also goes for horses, or any other animal that could destroy your gate. Remember to raise the height of the hot wire on fence and gate for taller animals!
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*Important: When planning on hot wiring your gate, make sure gate will swing open TOWARDS the same side as the hot wire, not away
Along the fence I prefer the hot wire to be at least 6in away from the fence but for gates I use shorter ones. Remember, there are insulators for wood, t posts, etc. Attach an insulator on each outer post and also two on the gate, one on each end. Dig a 6-12in deep trench right underneath where the gate hangs. With an old garden hose, cut a piece the same width as the gate plus another foot longer. Thread the end of the hot wire that has been stretching along the fence through one end of the hose and out the other. Place the hose in the open trench that has been dug
You can also use PVC pipe in place of the hose. For heavy traffic like horses or livestock, you will want to bury hose 1 1/2-2ft deep
Fill the trench in with dirt, covering the hose and leaving both ends of the hose sticking out of the ground
To attach a gate wire, cut a new piece of hot wire the same width as the gate plus about 1in extra and splice it to the main wire that was threaded through the hose. String the gate wire that has just been spliced, through the insulator on the gate post that the gate is mounted on, and then through the two insulators on the gate.
Tip: Secure the gate wire to each insulator by tying a double knot
Here is a closer look where the gate wire was spliced to the main wire that was earlier threaded through the hose. You can see how the gate wire was secured to each insulator by tying a double knot
The gate wire ends and is tied off at the ‘swinging side’ of the gate. The main hot wire that was strung through the hose comes out on the other side of the gate and continues along the fence
Tip: To keep water out of the hose, you can add silicone calking to seal the opening of each hose end. OR just leave as is and after a good storm, just blow into one end and water shoots out the other!….but first turn OFF THE HOTWIRE! 🙂
Here is what it looks like when the gate opens. The gate wire ends at the gate but the hot wire continues underground to the other side of the gate. Ingenious!
Ok so how about Fido trying to get at your chickens?…or rabbits?…or anything else they shouldn’t be sticking their nose into? No problem! Here is what I did for our chicken coop:
On the left side of the pic you can see a red electric fence handle that can easily be spliced to the hot wire so you can have access to the chicken coop
Here is a closer look. Twist some electricity-conducting wire around the insulator and make a loop at both ends so that the hot wire can be spliced to one loop to continue on (left side of pic), and handle can be unhooked for easy access
Make sure to check out part 1!
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